Other than Turkey, Iran has been the
country we spent the most time in, as well as being one of the places
we were most looking forward to visiting. We had a wonderful time,
but it also had a profound affect on us and was unlike anywhere else
we have been. Many of the things we accepted whilst being there now
seem very surreal to us. For this reason, we wanted to write a
synopsis, and include some of the things that didn't really fit in
the blog. Partially, this was because we did not want it to be
obvious who had told us some/certain things, or where they lived. The
last thing we want is to get anyone into trouble.
On Driving: Ostensibly better than
Georgia. The general atmosphere on the road is a lot calmer, with
fewer mental overtakes occurring, and definitely lower numbers of
livestock acting as road obstacles. Having said this, city driving is
terrifying on a motorbike. Most people seem to have no idea as to
what mirrors are for, and randomly swing out into adjoining lanes
without so much as a sidewards glance. Everyone is relying on
somebody else seeing them, but nobody is looking. Adding to the
danger, most scooter and motorbike riders have removed their mirrors
entirely and do not wear any safety gear at all. This, combined with
the fact that many people don't bother with seat belts and let their
children clamber all over the interior of the car, goes some way to
explaining the shockingly high road death statistics. According to a
2010 World Health Organisation report, there were 122.1 deaths in
Iran per 100,000 registered vehicles. The figure for the U.K. from
the same year was 6.5. No joke, on a few occasions parents held their
toddlers out of the passenger window to get a better look at our
bike. Thankfully, although this made us panic, everything was fine.
There are a lot of very old and badly
maintained vehicles on the road, and evidently no emissions testing.
This makes the pollution on the road terrible, and we were often
engulfed in clouds of thick diesel smoke when stuck behind lorries.
Many of the older cars have no working electrics, which is
interesting when the car in front decides to slam on the brakes.
On a side note, there are heavy
restrictions on importing cars, except for Peugeot. Foreign makes
such as BMW, Porsche etc are for the very, very rich due to the
import fees. We know politics is a dirty game in every country, but
even so we were shocked to learn that the only two Iranian car
manufacturers Saipa and Khodro are owned by top political figures. No
prizes for guessing why importing foreign makes is so restricted...
On People: Hands down, Iranian people
are the friendliest and kindest people we have met so far on the
road. People genuinely want to take care of you, and we did not feel
uncomfortable, afraid or threatened at any point. Although it can get
a little tiring being constantly waved at, called out to or stared at
like an animal in a zoo, overall we appreciated our warm reception
very much.
The only thing I found a little
difficult was that sometimes when male strangers came to speak with
us, they would address all their questions to Oli, whilst I got
completely ignored. We appreciated the fact that this stems from the
culture and is a respect thing, but although they were just trying to
be courteous I still found it frustrating on occasion, as it is not
what I am used to. It was by no means everyone though, and we had so
many lovely encounters with the people of Iran.
On Life in Iran: As a visitor, Iran is
amazing. For us it was a hassle free destination and one of the best
places we have ever been. However, we couldn't help but feel upset at
how hard life can be for some people. Due to the economic sanctions,
many people have seen their wages crash down to scarily low figures,
whilst the price of goods has risen dramatically. Getting hold of
basics such as medicines can be incredibly difficult. The sanctions
may have been aimed at putting pressure on the government, but it is
the general populace that are suffering.
Added to this, the difficulties people
face with things we take for granted shocked us. Many young people
had stories; From the girl who was questioned about her personal life
by the religious police after they saw her hand a book to a male
classmate, to the person who told us that some cafes make a lot of
money by allowing unmarried couples to use them as date places.
Romantic relationships are illegal outside of marriage. Whilst most
people just get on with life, they have to suffer extra stresses.
Internet: The internet is slow and also
heavily filtered. We could not access Facebook, our blog, Flickr,
Youtube etc. whilst in the country. However, almost everyone gets
around this easily with filter blockers / VPNs, so it seems to be
broadly tolerated. We were surprised to be asked by quite a few
people whether the internet in the UK was similarly restricted.
Satellites for televisions are also banned, but again their use is
widespread. Although there are crackdowns every now and then, it
seems to be tolerated.
On Queuing: People do queue... sort of.
Not in a line, but to the side (as in not really a line). The same
principle applies whether waiting for traffic lights or at the
bakery. It sort of works, and whilst proper line jumpers were rare,
you still have to hold your ground.
On the Dress Code: For men, shorts are
frowned upon (but as far as we are aware not illegal), but tight
jeans and t-shirts seems to be a-okay. For women it is a little more
complex. A long, loose shirt or manteau must be worn, coming to at
least the mid-thigh. Trousers / skirts must come down to the feet.
Hair must be covered with a scarf, although on the whole it is no
problem to wear it pretty loose and far back. The girls in Iran are
incredibly fashionable, and always seem to look very glamorous. The
hijab is loosely interpreted, and some ladies wear it so far back
they may as well dispense with it all together. Personally I am all
for women wearing this if it is their choice, but the fact that it
was law whilst there are few or no restrictions on what men can wear
definitely grated on me.
On Alcohol: In theory, it is completely
banned and we found that most people don't drink for their own
personal or religious reasons. However, it is apparently not
difficult to get hold of at all. One random person merrily pointed
out to us all the local places you could get it on the black market
(apparently this was also common knowledge with the police). We also
had an interesting incident where somebody giving us a lift asked Oli
to mix him his whisky and soda so he could drink whilst we were
going. Obviously it would have been dangerous to do the mixing
himself, as he was driving...
On Crime: Petty crime (at least to us
as outsiders) seems to be incredibly low. Although everyone worried
about our motorbike and kept warning us to be careful, we have never
felt safer. Apparently people think that the European crime rates are
very low, and were genuinely shocked when we told them there was no
way you would have any stuff left if you applied the same principles
in Manchester. Honestly, people in Iran leave their ground floor
windows open in major cities, and the exchange shops have almost no
security. At no point did we feel at risk carrying our camera around,
which has not always been the case whilst we have been on the road.
A traveller we met on the Bandar Abbas
ferry had actually requested information from the foreign office as
to how many incidents there had been negatively affecting Westerners
in the past year. There were only five reported problems, which for
us summed up how safe it is to visit Iran.
On Food: All the Iranian home cooking
we tried was excellent, but finding a decent meal out of the home can
be difficult. Although tasty donner and amazing falafel are widely
available, as mentioned in a previous post, there also seems to be a
fashion for western fast food, and bad western fast food at that. On
the plus side though, the availability of amazingly good quality
fruit and vegetables was a real treat for us as we had quite a few
opportunities to cook with them. The varied climate of Iran allows
them to grow a huge variety of produce. It was very cheap, and far
superior to what we were used to from British supermarkets. Oli is
still missing the Iranian tomatoes...
All in all, Iran is a fascinating country and we had such a great experience. We have never felt more welcomed or better looked after as travellers in any other place. Although a lot of things were different for us as Europeans, we found we had a lot in common with the people we met and spoke with. As one of them told us, 'The sky is the same colour in every country', which was a nice and fitting sentiment. We left the country inspired by the generosity of the people we met, and are determined to try and apply this more ourselves. Hopefully life will get easier for people financially as the Iranian and Western governments start to resolve their differences, as these people truly deserve a break. We cannot recommend a visit here enough. Despite the hassle and expense of getting the visa, it was worth all the effort and every penny.
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